It doesn’t come with a stand or a sponge. The Hakko FX-601 is an awesome portable iron - temperature controlled, 67 Watts. Temperature controlled stations have gotten cheap enough that it’s just not worth going with un-regulated ones. More powerful irons heat up hot enough to melt solder quicker, so with no risk of overheating, they’re much more convenient. Power supplies have gotten a lot smaller, so it’s very possible to get a portable sized iron (no base station) that’s got plenty of power and temperature control. Temperature controlled irons let you get a more powerful iron, and not worry about it burning itself out, or overheating and causing issues with nearby components. I can make some recommendations for soldering tools - I’ve taught a couple hundred people soldering through workshops with a local maker space, so have some opinions on the equipment that’s available ![]() If you have to do woodwork (cabinet repair), that opens up a whole new set of tools. Yeah, the nice thing is that most of the above can be used for other stuff, too. Rings I only carry a 11/16" in black, the rest all white in various sizes. I won’t carry 1464s to a solid state Williams repair, for example. I also carry 555 and 455 bulbs, but I do generally customize the bulbs to the job. I only use incandescents, so I carry 47s, the odd box of 44s (some people prefer them) 51s and 1464 (bingo card or one ball 17V circuits. Oh, and lots of bulbs and rubber rings of various types. And I switched from a plain ol’ manual wire stripper to a spring-loaded one when I started building my machine, and it has changed my life.Good soldering iron/gun (read: dependable) and a less portable temp-controlled station for board/fine repair with flux core solder (and separate flux for board repair).I have two different size ratchets with common sockets attached so I can easily tell - this is for leg bolts, this is for head bolts.A rubber mallet for installing lane guides or other wireforms. ![]() That said, a good set of clamps will do you well. I have vice grips for when I need a clamp.I use a hydraulic lift table, but many of my games are heavier than modern machines (bingos!) That said, I would still vastly prefer a lift table to those skate things - you can get a lift table for approx $100-$130 from Harbor Freight for 500lb capacity. ![]() A waldorm crimper (most other ones stink and can’t do the job properly).A good multimeter with continuity beep function or a test lamp.A good set of phillips and flat head screwdrivers with (lightly) magnetized tips.Many solid state games have similar requirements, however. Depending on the age of the game, you’ll need different tools.
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